Sunscreen for All, All for Sunscreen
Everything you need to know about SPF—including the expert-tested formulas you really want to wear.
Written by LAURA REGENSDORF
Image courtesy of Trunk Archive / Photography by Xavi Gordo
Summer arrives like a collective exhale. The time has come to bring the swimsuits back into rotation, to clock out early and relish the deliciously long days. It’s a chance to relax just about every routine, with one notable exception: the nonnegotiable slick of sunscreen.
“Wearing SPF daily on your face is, for me, the unbreakable skin-health rule,” says Dr. Antony Nakhla, the Southern California–based dermatologic surgeon behind the skin care brand Eighth Day. By now, awash in decades of research, we understand that sun exposure causes telltale burns—those would be UVB rays—and long-term cellular damage from UVA, which penetrates more deeply into the skin. While a beach trip demands extra precautions, the sun shines all the same upon an outdoor brunch or an afternoon dog walk. Given today’s dialed-in skin care routines that target cell turnover and hyperpigmentation—often increasing sun sensitivity in the process—a little protection goes a long way.
The sunscreen category is constantly evolving, so a refresher is in order. Here, Dr. Nakhla and Dr. Loretta Ciraldo, a veteran Miami dermatologist with her own namesake brand, discuss the difference between chemical and mineral formulas, the golden rules of application, and the latest news from the FDA. Plus, the expert-approved sunscreens to know—and love.
HOW MINERAL SUNSCREEN WORKS
The main types of sunscreen—mineral and chemical—are defined by the active ingredients that counteract the sun. The two FDA-approved mineral filters, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, function as a physical barrier on your skin, scattering sun rays at the surface. Zinc oxide is the gold standard, lending broad-spectrum coverage that qualifies it to stand alone. (Titanium dioxide needs bolstering, as it misses some of the UVA spectrum.) Because mineral filters are inert and don’t degrade over the course of a day, “their efficacy is very, very stable,” says Dr. Ciraldo. Historically, the downside was a regrettably chalky finish—picture the white paste on 1980s lifeguards—but modern mineral sunscreens run the gamut from hydrating milks to glow-boosting creams that suit a range of skin tones. Mineral formats are also generally advised for post-procedure use and for those with sensitive skin.
HOW CHEMICAL SUNSCREEN WORKS
As for chemical filters—there are more than a half-dozen in regular rotation in the United States, plus an expanded roster in European and Asian markets—they are designed to absorb UV energy and convert it into heat, intervening before sun damage can occur. One advantage with chemical filters is that they can be easier to formulate with, resulting in truly invisible products that wear like watery veils or glide-on gels. There are concerns that certain chemical filters (particularly oxybenzone and octinoxate) can disrupt marine life. A study published in 2020 showed that several chemicals in sunscreen had made their way into the bloodstream, prompting calls for further review. On the celebratory front, the FDA has just approved the chemical filter bemotrizinol (BEMT)—the first new addition since 1999, even though the ingredient has a long track record outside the US. It has particular advantages in photostability and broad-spectrum coverage, and will likely debut in formulas later this year.
APPLY LIKE A PRO
Whatever the formula specifics, the real risk is unmitigated sun damage—that’s what leads to skin cancer. “I always tell my patients any sunscreen is better than no sunscreen, so don’t get hung up on the mineral versus chemical thing,” says Dr. Nakhla. He points out that when and how much you apply matters just as much as the stated SPF. (That’s short for Sun Protection Factor; aim for at least SPF 30.) For your face, follow the two-finger guideline made famous by social media: a generous stripe of sunscreen along the index and middle fingers. For your body, Dr. Loretta recommends a shot glass’s worth, applying it a full 15 minutes before sun exposure. This is especially important with chemical formulas, which need to be absorbed into the skin to be effective. Doing a thorough once-over at home before hitting the pool or the soccer field is a good idea—and then take more for the road. Reapplication is crucial not just because sweat and ocean spray can disrupt a once-sufficient layer of sunscreen. The chemical filters are designed to absorb only so much light, so you need a fresh coat for continued protection. Every two hours when you’re in the sun is Dr. Loretta’s general advice—and consider a top-up when you come out of the water.
CONSIDER A SUNSCREEN WARDROBE
While sunscreen has gotten a bad rap, blamed for breakouts and white-cast finishes, the formulas now are certifiably elegant, especially for the face. “You’ve got to find a sunscreen you love so that you will use it every day,” says Dr. Ciraldo. Look for one that gives an immediate boost, she adds, “where the finish on your skin now looks better because you’ve got it on.” (After all, sunscreen is a beauty product, all right—it inhibits the wrinkles, sun spots, and collagen degradation associated with sun exposure.) Even better, assemble an all-star lineup of SPF that you can call on for different use cases. Here are the superlatives on THE SHELVES, from perennial best sellers to brand-new standouts.
