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Makeup artist Jeffrey Baum creates a smoky eye inspired by
mid-twentieth-century free spirits.
Written By Jess Basser Sanders
Photography By HEATHER GILDROY
Makeup By Jeffrey Baum
Hair By Asami Maeda
Styled By Donatella Musco
The French Bohemian Smoky Eye | Jeffrey Baum | The Violet Files | @violetgrey
THE ARTIST
Jeffrey Baum | @jeffreybaummakeup
THE INSPIRATION
Australian artist Vali Myers’ liner-heavy raccoon eyes in Ed van der Elsken’s 1956 photo book celebrating the mid-twentieth-century bohemians of Paris, Love on the Left Bank.
WHERE TO WEAR
Roaming the streets of Paris with your lover; a Ryan McGinley exhibition opening in Chelsea.
MEET THE FACE

the french bohemian
smoky eye

BY jeffrey baum
The Bohemian Smoky Eye Tutorial | The Violet Files | @violetgrey

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Baum readied skin with Avène’s ultra-hydrating Skin Recovery Cream, followed by Laura Mercier’s Oil Free Primer and Chanel’s Vitalumière Aqua Foundation. Next, he covered imperfections with Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage, and finished with a dusting of Mercier’s Setting Powder to keep it all in place.

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Using this deepest of black pencils, Baum first added some definition around the eye, then used a brush (VIOLET recommends: Utowa Brush #10) to blend and soften the look. Rather than elongating the liner into a cat eye, Baum used his brush to blend the pigment into a rounded shape around the eye.

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Baum opted to maintain a bit of lightness on the lids using a softer shade of shadow. To get the look, he layered a coffee-colored shadow in the middle of the lid using the same Utowa brush. The aim was to achieve a matte and smoky look without going too heavy. “You didn’t lose the roundness of the eyeshadow and the depth in the center of the lid,” he says. For the final flourish, Baum gave lashes a coat of Tom Ford’s Extreme Mascara.

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To keep the remainder of the look as simple as possible, Baum used MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Tint on both cheeks and lips. “I just wanted a bit of easy shade, so I pressed a dab of the Colour Base on the cheek and on the lip with a finger and blended it out. There wasn’t anything super-defined about it.”

ARTIST
PROFILE

JEFFREY BAUM

— MAKEUP ARTIST JEFFREY BAUM

ARTIST STATS:
Name: Jeffrey Baum
Known For: High-concept looks, clean skin, and strong brows
Where to Find Him: Los Angeles 
Clients: Mary Kate Olsen, Nicola Peltz
Years in the Industry: 6
Instagram: @jeffreybaummakeup 
Beauty Essential: Hanskin Glossy BB 
Mentions in The Violet Files: Best New Year’s Day Masks, The Left Bank Liner
Agent: Yan @ Jed Root
San Diego native Jeffrey Baum found his way to makeup through the city’s experimental theater scene. He was directing a play and ended up being “forced into directing the makeup, and it grew from there.” He soon began assisting celebrity makeup artist (and Violet Files collaborator) Kate Lee, who he says “definitely educated my eye about refined, feminine beauty and classic techniques.” 

Now based in Los Angeles, Baum revels in the creative spirit of the city, doing makeup for everything from Burberry, Belstaff, and Marc by Marc Jacobs ads to CR, Elle, and i-D editorials to red carpet outings for celebrities like Mary Kate Olsen. “There’s a great space here for interesting makeup in celebrity and fashion,” he says. “It’s not explicitly sexy, sexy makeup—there’s an idea and an integrity; there’s thought behind it.” 

VIOLET
MUST

Love on the Left Bank by Ed van der Elsken
Love on The Left Bank by Ed Van Der Elsken | The Violet Files | @violetgrey
NECESSARY
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