The great milliner Stephen Jones once described hats thusly: “A hat makes clothing identifiable, dramatic — and, most importantly, fashion. It’s the cherry on the cake, the dot on the i, the exclamation mark, the fashion focus. Everyone from showgirls to dictators knows that by wearing a hat they will be the center of attention.” But amid winter’s blustery temperatures, when a hat’s primary purpose becomes less ornamental, more utilitarian, we are often left with a different kind of lasting impression: hair as flat, dented and misshapen as a failed soufflé.