SHARE THIS

BEAUTY LESSONS:

FACE
TUNES

Like real life Snapchat filters, the new customizable, non-invasive “tweakments”—and their at-home boosters—make you look amazing but never overdone.


Written ByKATHERYN ERICKSON


Photography by ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG / TRUNK ARCHIVE


Mae West famously remarked that “too much of a good thing can be wonderful,” but when it comes to dermatological procedures restraint is proving to be one of the more critical ingredients. Perhaps it’s a response to the fact that everyone’s features were starting to look a little too similar (think generously-filled cheekbones, the rise of Instagram contouring, and overly-enthusiastic Botox). Or maybe it’s that our goals have simply changed: “We’ve redefined what beauty means,” says Dr. Laura Devgan, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon in New York City and founder of luxury skin care line Dr. Devgan Scientific Beauty. “It’s less about being handed down an archaic and ill-fitting beauty standard from the cover of a magazine and more of a feeling and being the best version of yourself.”

The tools for brightening, lifting, and resurfacing are more advanced than ever, but latest methodology in non-invasive skin care celebrates this more individualized approach. The intention has shifted from changing and excessive age defying to subtle tweaks that make you look great but never different or contrived. Let us introduce you to them:

THE NEXT CREASE RELEASE


THE TWEAKMENT: Jeuveau for Softening Lines

THE TARGET: Botox is one of the OG tweakments and the most name-dropped wrinkle relaxer—but it isn’t the only option out there. There’s also Xeomin, Dysport, and Jeuveau, the latest, which launched in May and is FDA-approved to treat the glabellar lines (AKA the pesky “elevens”) that appear between the brows. (Expect doctors to use it off-label for a variety of skin concerns.) All four options are neuromodulators—meaning they work to relax the muscles that cause wrinkles—and they’re all very similar in terms of results, duration, and experience, Dr. Devgan says. Still, there’s a lot of buzz for the latter. Will it replace Botox? The quick answer: No. “Jeuveau is just another shade of paint,” explains Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, cosmetic dermatologist, Madonna’s skin whisperer, and founder of PFRANKMD & Skin Salon in New York City. “I will use it, and I’m glad I have a full palette. I always say that any provider that uses one color of paint is working in black and white, but there’s nothing overly novel or dramatically more effective about it.” The takeaway: Consider it yet another tool for your doctor to accomplish the best, most natural refining.

THE TIME COMMITMENT: Like Botox and other neuromodulators, Jeuveau takes a few minutes to administer, pain is manageable, and the line-lessening effects last three to four months.

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: Good skin care habits are as essential as a trip to the derm. Apply Joanna Vargas Supernova Serum at bedtime—it contains retinol to retexturize skin and minimize wrinkles, a nourishing mix of fatty acids, and chamomile to soothe.


THE FINE FINISHER


THE TWEAKMENT: Infusion Microneedling for Glass Skin

THE TARGET: Like so many things that improve our complexions, microneedling is good for skin because it ever so slightly damages it. By creating teensy holes, or trauma, it effectively stimulates collagen production. The latest in needling—using the process to infuse ingredients into skin—adds more benefits. “We used to use a solid needle to make little pricks in the skin and slather stuff on top, hoping it seeped in,” Dr. Devgan explains. “Now we’re using hollow-bore needles and a sterile glass vial to micro-inject a customized cocktail of substances into the dermis.” The “cocktail” can include everything from hyaluronic acid to plump skin, PRP (platelet-rich plasma, which would require a quick blood draw) to rejuvenate, and neuromodulators like Botox to shrink pores (by contracting piloerector muscles at the base of hair follicles, Dr. Devgan explains). “We’re injecting these things 600 microns deep into the dermis and it creates this beautiful, glassy, perfect-looking skin,” she adds. “If you imagine that skin is a fabric like linen, the treatment makes it more tightly woven, like cotton.” Have you made your appointment yet?

THE TIME COMMITMENT: A treatment takes 30 minutes (10 minutes each to numb, prep, and perform), and there’s a few hours of redness after. Plan on skipping makeup for the rest of the day (and maybe the rest of the week; you’ll be luminous).

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: With Beauty Bio Glopro Microneedling Regeneration Tool you can DIY microneedling at home. Use it a few times a week, then apply a soothing hydrogel sheet mask like 111 Skin Celestial Black Diamond Lifting and Firming Mask (which contains three separate parts soaked in feature-specific actives for treating face, neck, and chest).




THE LOW-IMPACT LIFT


THE TWEAKMENT: Radiofrequency Microneedling for Non-Invasive Tightening

THE TARGET: Novel uses of microneedling aren’t limited to ingredient delivery. With devices like Vivace, Infini, Profound, and Genius, it is also being used to deliver energy and lift skin. “They basically microinject energy like radiofrequency into skin instead of massaging it from the outside,” Dr. Frank explains. “You’re going to get a lot more tightening, textural, and cosmetic improvements than you would from something totally non-invasive like Tempsure or Thermage.” Because both microneedling and radiofrequency boost collagen production, the benefits include plumping, perking up lax skin, and smoothing out creases. The best part: Unlike lasers, they work on all skin tones.

THE TIME COMMITMENT: Treatments average an hour (plus some additional time for skin numbing) and can be slightly painful. How you’ll look when you leave depends on your goals, your doctor’s plan, and the chosen device: “We can use them in a way that has an hour of downtime or we can use them in a way that has a week of downtime,” Dr. Frank says.

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: Hanacure’s ability to lift, tighten, and make pores disappear has converted many a loyal user. Use the mask weekly to keep skin firm and bright.




THE REAL LIFE FILTER

THE TWEAKMENT: Microfiller and Baby Botox for Defined Features

THE TARGET: Fillers have gotten a bad rap, but Dr. Devgan’s signature approach to injectables involves “facial optimization”—making several millimeter-level changes at a time, whether it’s adding volume to tear troughs to minimize dark circles, non-surgical rhinoplasty, gently contouring cheekbones, lifting brows with Botox, or adding subtle volume to lips. “It’s the principle of a Snapchat filter—if you make many tiny one millimeter changes, the entire face will look better but it’s hard to pinpoint why,” she explains. “When fillers first came on the market, there was a tendency to try to do the most possible with them, and that’s why we saw so many taut, shiny foreheads and puffy chipmunk cheeks. There’s been a return to discretion and classicism; anatomic characteristics should not be trend-driven the way fashion and makeup are.”

THE TIME COMMITMENT: Appointment times vary based on the amount of work, but you should be able to return to the office the same day. Depending on what types of injectables are used, results last an average of six to 18 months.

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: The ZIIP nanocurrent device is your personal facialist. Do the “Energize” treatment, a 12-minute routine, to lift and brighten, boost circulation, and maintain your new-and-improved facial contours.


THE NEXT-GEN FACIAL


THE TWEAKMENT: The Jet Peel for Dewy, Big Event Skin

THE TARGET: Those occasions when you need skin to look especially perfect? Consider the jet peel, which is not so much a peel as it is an oxygen facial on steroids. “It’s a new device that uses pressure to deliver facial feeding,” Dr. Dennis Gross, the New York City-based dermatologist and skincare brand founder, explains. “A jet-stream of oxygen turns water-based vitamins and ingredients into micro-sized molecules that are then able to penetrate 3mm into the epidermis.” The ingredients are custom to your skin’s needs—options include Vitamins C, A, and B, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and glycolic acid—and the treatment addresses everything from dehydration to acne while leaving skin extremely hydrated, plump, and radiant.

THE TIME COMMITMENT: The facial takes about 40 minutes and the results are immediate skin. Like a facial, a monthly jet peel is ideal, and the results are cumulative.

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: Cult facialist Melanie Simon’s Serum C is packed with ultra-stabilized Vitamin C to add even more glow to skin. Apply five to ten drops and let it sit for a few minutes before applying your moisturizer to reap the full, free radical-eradicating benefits.


THE QUICK LIP SERVICE


THE TWEAKMENT: HydraFacial Lip Perk for Plumping and Hydration

THE TARGET: You’ve probably heard of the in-office HydraFacial—the express facial that exfoliates, cleanses pores, and hydrates skin. Well, there’s a version exclusively for your pout. The Lip Perk treatment is a quick add-on service that sloughs off flakes and plumps lips with ingredients like aloe, peony, and peppermint.

THE TIME COMMITMENT: Less than ten minutes and lips are thoroughly refreshed.

THE AT-HOME BOOSTER: You’ll take home the extra lip serum used in your Perk treatment (which lasts about 30 days). Also consider the ultra-nourishing Dr. Devgan Platinum Lip Plump, which boosts your natural lip color and leaves lips glossy and full.