Building a Serum Wardrobe
LESSONS:
BUILDING
A SERUM WARDROBE
Targeted serums are the new investment pieces—and the foundation to a next-level skin care routine.
- Written By
- Laura Regensdorf
- Photography By
- Noua Unu
As enticing as it is to imagine a single, do-it-all skin care savior, there is just no way to pack every miracle ingredient, and problem-solver, into one tiny bottle. Besides, “miracle” for whom, for when? Each complexion is a unique case, just as each day brings a fresh set of circumstances to consider: shifting seasons (or hormones), too much sun or too little sleep, parched skin today but clogged pores tomorrow.
Serums—potent elixirs formulated to sink right into skin—are the targeted treatments designed to slip in and out of a routine as needed, or to layer one atop another for a coordinated assist. The step before a moisturizer (which adds hydration) or nourishing oil (which seals everything in), serums are the foundation of a streamlined, high-performance regimen. You might use one daily; you might use three.
Building this collection of solution-oriented tonics that will do the heavy lifting, and occasional troubleshooting, in your daily routine is what we call wardrobing. As you have likely invested time and thought into curating your own closet—workhorse vintage Levi’s, the perfect white T, special-occasion heels and statement coats that never disappoint—a serum wardrobe functions in much the same way: each product specially chosen for the task at hand. What does an expertly edited serum wardrobe include? That depends entirely on you. For a little guidance, we consulted the pros from our VIOLET GREY Committee of Industry Experts.
Building this collection of solution-oriented tonics that will do the HEAVY LIFTING in your daily routine is what we call wardrobing.
VIOLET GREY
“In general, I like that a serum is really specific about what it is going to accomplish—you have to have your niche,” says Raquel Medina-Cleghorn, New York aesthetician to the fashion set. High on her list are two mainstay ingredients: vitamin A, the umbrella term for the class of retinoids that encourages cell turnover (and with it, clear pores and diminished fine lines), and vitamin C, the brightening, skin-tone-evening super-antioxidant. These, she says, are “my daily kick-around sneaker of the serum wardrobe.” From there, additions to one's personalized edit might focus on hydration (via the water-binding molecule hyaluronic acid), barrier repair (healing ceramides and anti-inflammatory extracts), and texture refinement (mild acids). Manhattan dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD, finds that most of her patients are interested in addressing the usual age-related concerns. “For that, it’s all about protection, prevention, and then stimulation,” she says, adding that “the best way to get your collagen is to not ever lose it.” For that, look for serums focused on regeneration, with peptides and growth factors designed to plump and restore the skin matrix.
When applying more than one serum in succession, “the rule of thumb is to layer in order of viscosity,” explains Medina-Cleghorn. The thinnest typically goes on first—which is also why the serum step in a regimen always precedes moisturizer. Understanding each serum’s purpose, and when to use it, is important to avoiding redundancy, not to mention potential irritation (don’t overdo it!). Medina-Cleghorn brings up the recent “skin-cycling” conversation that swept social media. “That idea of spacing out your actives has been around,” she genially points out, referring to the practice of incorporating rest days around, say, retinol use or exfoliation. “Now, we just have a cute name for it.”
YEAH, WE’VE GOT A SERUM FOR THAT
The ultimate assortment of high-performance heavy lifters, for whatever you need, whenever you need it.
CELLULAR REGENERATION
These are the transformers. Fueled by biotech bonafides, they are packed with ingredients that include human-derived growth factors, biomimetic peptides, and patented complexes that tap into stem cell science.
NEW-GUARD RETINOL
The latest formulas in this derm-favorite category aim for the cell-turnover benefits of prescription-strength vitamin A while minimizing the telltale irritation. Innovations range from targeted delivery systems and repair-oriented amino acid complexes to anti-inflammatory botanicals.
THE SUPER Cs
Every great regimen includes some form of vitamin C. This gold-standard antioxidant is known to add immediate brightness, protect against collagen degradation, neutralize free radicals, and improve hyperpigmentation and UV damage. Our top picks are notably more stable than most, and are offered at robust, results-driven concentrations.
SURFACE REFINERS
Gentle exfoliation—by way of time-release multi-acid blends, balanced with calming doses of hydration and soothing lipids—arrives in serum form.
HEAVY LIFTING HYALURONICS
These powerhouse formulas designed to layer into daily regimens feature the molecule synonymous with long-lasting hydration.
PRO-LEVEL REPAIR
These nourishing, skin-healing elixirs aim to restore equilibrium by way of high-performance protective care.