Skip to contentSkip to footer

ORDER PROCESSING IS DELAYED UP TO 1 WEEK AS VIOLET GREY TRANSITIONS TO A NEW WAREHOUSE

0

ORDER PROCESSING IS DELAYED UP TO 1 WEEK AS VIOLET GREY TRANSITIONS TO A NEW WAREHOUSE

All About Retinol

Share this

The Violet Files

Filed under

LESSONS

LESSONS:

ALL ABOUT RETINOL

Your what, when, where, how, and why guide to the iconic skin-boosting ingredient.

Written By
FIORELLA VALDESOLO
VIOLET GREY
Model applying face serum

Takuya Uchiyama / Trunk Archive

Retinol’s complexion-perfecting abilities have made it one of skin care’s most name-checked ingredients. But it also seems to be one of the most misunderstood. When should we start a relationship with retinol? Who can use it and, just as important, who can’t? What’s the difference between the myriad retinol options? As it continues to pop up on product ingredient labels everywhere, dispelling the confusion feels that much more urgent. With that in mind, we tapped two top New York dermatologists to share their retinol insights and find out if it is indeed the skin care secret sauce our collective regimens need.

WHAT EXACTLY IS RETINOL?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and the best known example of a retinoid, the overarching term for this powerhouse class of A-ingredients. (Many of them, in fact, start with the letter R.) How does it hit all its skin care marks? By increasing cell turnover. “Our skin, much like a snake, sheds every 28 days, and retinol is something that helps it go through that shedding process a little faster,” explains dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross. “It refreshes the skin’s surface more quickly, which brightens it, helps pores look better, and improves texture.” The difference between an over-the-counter retinol and a prescription-strength retinoic acid (aka tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene found under the brand names Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac, respectively) is a question of potency and penetration: the latter causes cell turnover to happen more rapidly, and it also goes deeper. “It’s going to get into the entire lining of the pore, from the opening at the surface down to the connection with the oil gland,”  Dr. Gross explains. “That’s why they are often prescribed for acne because the problem begins with a blockage deep in the pore.” If you’re dealing with severe acne, prescription retinoids may be your best bet. For other skin care concerns like fine lines and texture, retinol can have a significant impact; it just might take a little longer for some people to see results.

HOW TO USE RETINOL

Often referred to as retinization, such effects as redness, peeling, and dry patches can occur when starting on retinoids, particularly in the nasolabial folds, which can be prone to irritation, says dermatologist Dr. Macrene Alexiades. The most important thing—no matter whether your retinoid is store-bought or doctor-prescribed—is to ease it into your routine. “Many forms of retinol are extremely well tolerated as long as people comply with usage recommendations,” says Dr. Alexiades. If you have sensitive skin, she suggests starting with a pea-sized amount at bedtime every other night or once a week, building up to every night if you can tolerate it. Gentler still is her short contact method: Apply a retinoid to clean skin for five minutes and then rinse off. Once you’ve acclimated, gradually increase to 10, 15, and eventually 30 minutes, at which point it’s fully absorbed and you can leave it on overnight. “Slowly increasing the dose gives your skin time to adjust,” she says.

 

Dr. Gross, on the other hand, admits that he’s been steering many of his clients away from prescription retinoids entirely because of their potential to exacerbate redness for those who are prone to it. “Redness is a huge concern with my patients, and it doesn’t take much to make inflammation look worse,” he says. “I’ve found that you can use [over-the-counter] retinol more frequently and more easily. At the end of the day, I think you’re better off using a retinol on a daily basis versus a [prescription] retinoid just a few times a week.”

WHEN SHOULD YOU START USING RETINOL?

There’s a whole world of impactful ingredients available, but retinol remains a tried-and-true skin care stalwart. It is, says Dr. Gross, an ideal starting point for a twenty-something looking to up their skin care game and graduate to products that are more results-oriented. “It’s a great way to rejuvenate skin at the surface, which is where a younger clientele is seeing a lot of their issues,” he says. “Even after three days of usage you start to see a change in radiance, which is a huge selling point.” His retinol M.O. for twenty-somethings and beyond is to find a product where it’s cocktailed with an antioxidant, like ferulic acid, which he uses in his line’s retinol formula. “Free radicals are part of the inflammatory process, so there’s a synergy between an antioxidant, which is a free-radical scavenger, and retinol,” says Dr. Gross. “It’s a combo that’s gentler and more protective of the skin.”

WHAT IS BIO-RETINOL?

You have likely heard some buzz about bakuchiol and other plant-derived ingredients with retinoid-esque properties. While it doesn’t have retinol’s many clinical studies behind it, bakuchiol does show promise as a botanical alternative. For her line, Macrene Actives, Dr. Alexiades formulates frequently with resveratrol, an antioxidant she sources from wild grapes, and has come to prefer these plant-derived compounds to retinol because of their lower risk for irritation.

YOUR RETINOL QUESTIONS ANSWERED

In-demand ingredients, like retinol, are also the source of myths, confusion, and speculation. Here, our experts answer some of the most common questions about adding retinol to your skin care regimen.

 

Will retinol thin my skin?

Yes and no. “Retinol does peel and therefore thin the stratum corneum, which is the skin’s outermost layer,” says Dr. Alexiades. “However, over time, it actually increases the thickness of the skin.” That combination of surface-level glow and renewed bounce is partly what keeps retinol in the ranks of gold-standard skin care ingredients.

 

Can I use retinol in the summer?
You can, but you have to be that much more vigilant about sun protection, especially if you’re using a prescription retinoid. While there is no evidence that vitamin A derivatives cause phototoxicity when they’re exposed to the sun, they are likely to increase photosensitivity, meaning skin can burn or irritate more easily. “No studies have looked at how much more SPF is required due to the increased vulnerability of the skin with retinoid use, but it is probably wise to increase your SPF use,” Dr. Alexiades advises. Dr. Gross likes to say that pink is the new red: If you’re wearing sunscreen and still turning pink, it’s time to increase your SPF.

 

What if Im pregnant?
Among the popular prescription retinoids, tazarotene is the only one categorized as an X, meaning it’s completely contraindicated during pregnancy. Though tretinoin and adapalene are category C (and haven’t been proven safe or unsafe), dermatologists will tell you to steer clear of any and all retinoids, including over-the-counter retinol, while pregnant and nursing.

 

Does retinol play nicely with my other skin care products?
That comes down to the individual. Many derms advise against combining retinols with alpha hydroxy acids and vitamin C, but some people’s skin (especially if it’s naturally oilier) can tolerate more active ingredient combinations. Dr. Gross employs a bit of trial and error. “There are definitely benefits to [layering actives]. Just watch out for reactions,” he says. “If you’re getting irritated, then stop everything and add products back one at a time.” You can also consider spacing out those actives to different days of the week.

 

 

 

SHARE THIS FILE